How to Buy The Right Bird

Good Parrot Bad Parrot  

         There are good things and bad things about every type of parrot. I, like many others was on a seemingly lifelong search for the perfect hook-bill. Some people are still looking for that perfect feathered friend and most are starting to realize that all parrots have good and bad traits. It is for this reason, I believe, that many bird owners have multiple birds. A typical bird owner might say: “I like my Cockatoo because she is cuddly”, or “I like my Grey because he is so talkative”, or “I like my Conure because he’s so energetic, clownish and playful.” The truth is that what really is the best parrot for me may not be for you. One might ask, “how do I know what bird is right for me?” That’s the question you need to be asking yourself, now, before you start to look for a bird. This is no time for impulse buying and looking at baby parrots can trigger an impulse purchase by even the most parrot-savvy buyer. Prioritize the things you want most out of your bird, and think long term. For example, beautiful colors may be enticing, now, but is it going to be as important as personality or noise level after a few years? How important is talking? Most birds that talk well are also prone to being louder overall. Do you, or are you going to, have small children in the house? African Greys, Macaws, Cockatoos, and Amazons can bite little fingers pretty darn hard! Children do grow up, but they will need to be kept away, from the cage and bird, while they’re young.

Which parrot should I buy

In reference to Good Parrot Bad Parrot, you may be on a zealous search for that perfect pet bird. There are so many choices that many people become overwhelmed. Let’s face it, this is not an easy decision and need not be taken lightly. Many Parrots live a very long time.

Lifespan

A birds’ lifespan is precisely the best place to start. You must ask yourself, “How long am I willing to care for my parrot?” Parakeets, Cockatiels, and lovebirds have about the same lifespan as a dog. They can live for approximately ten to fifteen years. Many small parrots including: Conures (the smaller ones), Poicephalus (Meyers and Senegals size), Parrotlets, and Quakers also live 15 to 25 years. These birds offer more “parrot” personality than say a Budgie or cockatiel.  Amazons, Cockatoos, Macaws, Eclectus, and large African species, including Greys, have a very long lifespan reaching fifty years or more! If I have not included a particular species you are interested in you can usually go by “the bigger the bird the longer it lives”. Of course there are exceptions in some birds living longer or shorter lives, but these are the averages.

Noise

            Next, Lets talk about noise. Noise seems to be a huge factor in bird ownership and even though you may be ok with a certain level of it, other family members and neighbors may not. Neighbors, in particular, can be very troublesome and things can get very ugly fast! As a breeder, in Southern California, I have battled with noise problems for the past twenty years. It can be very frustrating and certain species just can't be kept peaceably in my area. While pondering noise, there are a few things to take into consideration. First, and most obvious, is pure volume. Second, and much more troublesome, are frequency and duration. Here is a good example: My Macaws though much louder are far less bothersome than my Aratinga Conures (Suns, Jendays, Gold capped, and Nandays ). Lastly, and sometimes overlooked, is high pitch verses low pitch. To understand this principal:  Take your cell phone and listen to the different ring tones, the high pitch ones are far more annoying than the low tones. Interestingly, the high pitch rings can be heard even with a lot of background noise where the lower tones get lost in the clutter of noise.  Because noise can become such a big problem I highly recommend getting a good book on bird behavior before you get your bird.  It's much easier to avoid problems than to try to fix them. Check out our bookstore and grab a good Book.

 Pure volume

        The very loudest parrots are the large Macaws and the large Cockatoos.  These are followed by Amazon parrots, medium sized cockatoos, Mini Macaws, and the Aratinga family of Conures, but not necessarily in that order. It is safe to say that some of these birds are quite loud but don’t use their voices with much frequency (Aratinga not included). My Five Macaws almost never scream during the day but will sound-off occasionally in the morning before getting settled and then again in the afternoon just before dark. Some of the more quiet species include but not limited to: Pionus parrots, Pyrrhura family of Conures (Greencheeks), and many of the Poicephalus family, or African parrots. There are others as well but it would take a book in itself to list them all. Check our Bookstore under species specific.

 Frequency
        There are some parrots that are prone to scream more or for longer periods of time. These birds can be darn right annoying. Even small disturbances can set them off. Keep in mind that when a bird screams incessantly usually something is wrong. If not corrected, screaming can become a bad habit. Owners reinforce screaming by rewarding bad behavior. Examples "Be Quiet!"(you've just called back to your bird incourageing him to call again) or "Ok I'll let you out just calm down" (You are now training him to scream whenever he wants out) I recommend Good Bird by Barbara Heidenreich for simple answers to complex problems. A well socialized and well cared for “bird friend” is less likely to become a “squawker”. A bird that is prone to be loud can be taught to use its voice less often with a particular bird is chosen. The most troublesome birds in regards to frequency are Conures belonging to the Aratinga family, also some amazons, sotraining. By the same token, a bird that is known to be less noisy can become a nuisance without proper training. Proper care and attention must be given regularly. Bird behavior is a subject for an entirely different book so I will not expand. There are a lot of good books on bird behavior that can be helpful, once me mini Macaws, some cockatoos, and the list goes on. Peach fronted, Dusky, and Half moon Aratinga Conures are less noisy. Lilac Crowned, Yellow Shouldered, White Fronted, and Blue Fronted Amazons are less noisy. Green cheek Conures like many other members in the Pyrrhura family are not typically noisy. Pionus parrots and African or poicephalus parrots are not typically noisy. All of these birds, noisy or not, can become great pets. Also, remember that all parrots are noisy at times, so if you’re sensitive to noise you might want to look for an Aracaris or Toucanet (small toucans that make excellent pets without the noise). Check Lexicon of parrots to find other particular birds that may be less or more noisy. They list all parrots and give individual noise ratings that can be very helpful. It will be well worth your time to do some research on your own.

High pitch low pitch

        Some parrots emit a very high pitch screech or scream that can be ear piercing although it may or may not be very loud. Other parrots have a lower tone type of call. The best way to describe the difference would be to put the noise parrots make into two categories (the “eek” sound, or the “aawk” sound).Try doing a search by using YouTube to actually hear the sound emitted by your parrot or parrots of choice.

If one is good. Is two better?

         My answer to this question might be surprising to some people. Most of the research I’ve done on the subject is one sided. My direct answer to this question is yes and no, although I lean towards the former. Let’s look at percentages first in regards to parrot ownership. From my experience the vast majority of parrot owners are lacking, usually because of time constraints, in providing the companionship that parrots, as “flock creatures”, require. Parrots need Companionship and stimuli to be happy. If ones’ parrot companion is left alone the majority of the day it will not be getting the companionship that “Flocking birds” are psychologically dependant upon.  family of Parrots flock together in the wild as a means of security and protection. When we put them into our environment, even though they are much safer, their instincts still tell them that they need to flock. Parrots are thus “hard wired” in their desire to be part of a Flock. Because this instinct is so strong, Being left alone most of the day can produce undesirable behaviors. These include but are not limited to: screaming, feather plucking, and aggression. I believe this is a direct result of the anxiety they feel from being alone. Toys and other stimuli can be helpful, but fall short in fulfilling their ultimate need for companionship. The parrot that will become a very close friend, talk the most, and come to believe that it is more “human” than “bird”, is the one that has an owner that can offer lots of time. This requires a big commitment. People who are retired or work from home can usually fulfill this requirement. Although many of us desire this relationship, and may even believe we are capable of giving it, find that it is difficult day in and day out for years on end.  This type of owner is ideal but the percentages show that these owners are less common. I attended a bird mart on one particular occasion and witnessed first-hand one of such people. This man had his Ring-neck Parakeet with him and had such a close bond with the bird that it seemed they shared a sixth sense. I’ve seen this in “flock mates” or closely bonded breeding pairs.  When I saw this man interact with his bird I Thought “it would be neat to have that kind of bond with one of my birds” but I just don’t have the time at this stage in my life. I am much more content as a flock member that my five macaws accept as a welcomed guest going in and out of their daily activities.  Now, what does this mean for the majority of us who want a pet bird but can’t be the perfect companion?  I would seriously consider getting two birds that are compatible, and caging them separately, but allowing them to see each other or be together outside the cage during the day. Compatible birds are usually around the same size but not necessarily the same species, although being of the same parrots is helpful. My five pets are a Green winged Macaw, a Scarlet Macaw, a Blue & Gold Macaw, a Buffons Macaw, and a Red Fronted Macaw. They are not the same species but are of the same family of macaws. I let them be together all day every day, outside of their cages, but they sleep in separate cages at night. I can interact with most of them as much or as little as I have time for and am able to love my birds for their beauty and their individual personalities. I love to offer treats, scratch their heads, talk to them, and play with them. I always encourage the bond they share together. It is the healthiest thing for their ultimate well-being. I am part of their “flock” but not the only or most important part. They have each other. I can leave them for long periods of time while I’m on vacation and I don’t worry that they will be alone and anxious. “Flock abandonment” can and does produce extreme fear and anxiety in many birds. My birds are allowed to be “just birds”, but at the same time they are my pets. For me this is “the best of both worlds”. Parrots were intended to live in groups, not as solitary animals.  I seem to add to my “flock” continually as I find many people are not able to keep these large birds for as long as they can live.

        So the answer for me is yes, two or more are better than one. The answer for you may be different. One thing to remember is that it is much easier to “flock” birds when they are young or at least in their first years before maturity. Older birds can be flocked, it just takes a little more time and effort on your part to do it right.

 Ok, I’ve made my Decision now what?

When is the best time to buy?   

Now the fun starts! Let’s go bird shopping! The best time to shop is late spring through summer. While some Birds can almost breed year round, the majority breed late winter to early spring. This means that the majority of babies will be weaning (eating on their own consistently) in March for the Cockatoos and some Conures, and April through summer for the rest. African species, Cockatiels, and Eclectus can be available almost anytime but still the majority in the spring. Christmas time or right before can be good but fewer babies are available, and prices are typically higher. The worst time is usually from January until spring as breeders are resting. This being said, you can find good birds anytime but it may be more difficult at certain times of the year.

Bird stores

        The most obvious place would be a pet shop or bird store. While good birds can be found at either the latter would be better. Prices are typically higher but you get to see and interact directly with the birds in the stores. You also get to hear their sounds, see their sizes, and observe their behaviors. Personnel in bird specific stores will be most knowledgeable about bird care, and the species offered for sale. I would not recommend Petco or Petsmart as these stores are overpriced, lack knowledgeable help, and usually don't have well socialized parrots. This of course has been my own experience.

Magazines

        Many places don’t have good bird stores or pet shops. Another great place to look is in Bird Talk Magazine. Towards the back of the magazine you will find the Breeders Directory. In this section you’ll find breeder box ads listed by state for your convenience. After the box ads you’ll find the classifieds. The classifieds are less reliable but more numerous which can be helpful if you are looking for a less common bird. The AFA puts out a quarterly magazine in which you can find breeders. This magazine will have even more reliable breeders than Bird talk and is a better magazine altogether. It's harder to get though as you have to become a member to receive it. There is a link to the AFA website at the top of the Home page.

 Breeders Direct

        The internet is a beautiful thing and with a little help you can find almost any bird at competitive prices. You will be dealing with the breeders direct. Breeders can be very helpful with a wealth of knowledge about the birds they breed. Just remember to use your research, and don’t be surprised if you find that the “best bird” is the species they have chosen to work with. All of us breeders have our favorites, and rightfully become partial to a specific species. The good news is that most breeders offer a variety of different birds. Also, you will be able to contact breeders that advertise the type of bird or birds you have chosen. Good places to find breeders are on breeder Listing sites. These sites are becoming very popular, with breeders, since you don’t have to worry about being in the top ten of the search engines. In fact I would discourage you from just doing a Google search because you will get the top listed sites only. These breeders are typically more expensive as it costs a lot to get good placement. This does not mean that they are not good but expect to pay more. The following are some good breeder directories that I have used over the years: birdbreeders.com, upatsix.com, hookbillsforsale.com, and birdsnways.com.  I’m sure there are more so I will continue to add to this list as I find them. Some breeder directories even offer feed-back by the buyers. Similar to e-bay, you can get breeder ratings. While I personally stick to breeders I already know, for most of my purchases, it is still really reassuring to go to directories that rate their breeders. When looking for harder to find birds, the classifieds can be helpful but are more “risky”.  A good way to protect your self is to ask for references. Here are some classifieds: Recycler.com, hoobly.com, faunaclassifieds.com, toolady.com/classifieds. , kijiji, and craigslist. With classifieds sometimes the only link you have to a person is a telephone number. To list on breeder directories you are asked for a working email, website, home address, and telephone numbers. I would say that the safest breeders to work with list all of the above in their profile. Some Breeders don’t have working websites. Strike one. Some breeders don’t like to be contacted by email or use a free email like Yahoo or hotmail. Strike two. Some breeders won’t give an address. Strike three. It must be understood that breeders are cautious about giving out addresses for fear of theft, but when you are dealing with out of state sales you have to be willing to give a little. At the least their work addresses. No P.O. boxes. If you can get references use them. If the breeder seems unsure about specifics, or it sounds too good to be true, look elsewhere. Again the breeder directories are the safest and to be extra safe go to the ones with a website, e-mail, address, and phone number.

Buying birds sight-unseen, and having birds shipped

Buying Online

         Buying birds online is a little different than picking out a bird at your local pet store. When buying online from a breeder, that is out of state, or simply too far to get to, the bird must be shipped. How can you know that you are getting a healthy happy bird? What if it’s missing a toenail or toe? What if its’ beak is disfigured or misaligned? What if it’s really sick? What if it’s biting or mean? Ok, no more what ifs, but you get the point. The unspoken etiquette in selling a bird sight-unseen is to disclose any undesirable “particulars” about the bird.

Health and Quality

              There are no ways of monitoring breeders to uphold these standards except those bird directories that use the rating system. This is an invaluable tool and directories that use it should be supported. One particular site that uses this “rate the breeder” practice is birdbreeders.com .  Another way to protect your self is to ask lots of specific questions in regards to “undesirable particulars”. Health of the bird should be guaranteed by the breeder. Many breeders give you a time frame in which the bird should be checked by an avian vet to rule out possible illness. Although this is uncommon in the bird trade, some breeders will give you a, six month to one year, preexisting health guarantee. This means that your bird is guaranteed to be free of any diseases that would have been contracted in the breeding or nursery environment. Again, ask questions, and be clear about the guarantee being offered. It should be in writing and signed by the breeder. One way to avoid most of these concerns is to search first for breeders in your area, so you can pick-up your bird, and inspect it yourself. Breeder directories will list breeders by state to help you in buying local. By using breeder directories, I have found birds in many different states, and I have had them shipped without a single problem so far. In fact, most of my birds have been obtained through shipping because of the volume of breeder birds I’ve needed. Also, you can and should ask for pictures of the bird or birds you are buying.

Shipping

            Let me first say that I have shipped many birds, and have received many birds by shipping, without a problem. Birds are shipped by Delta, continental, and other airlines. These airlines have strict rules and procedures, which must be adhered to, so as to protect the bird or birds. Weather is checked first at all airports, where the cargo will be connecting or arriving, to make sure it’s not too cold or too hot. Once things have been cleared the birds are ready for drop-off. The breeder will then go to the cargo dept. of say Delta. There, the carrier will be inspected and weighed so as to determine the cost of shipping. The latest trend has been to use plastic cat or dog carriers as the method of containment. A perch is secured in the crate and a cup is attached to the metal door for water in case a flight is delayed. Plenty of seed and apples, or other high water content fruit, are placed inside the crate for the bird or birds to munch on. After clearing inspection the “crate” is tagged with the shipper and receivers’ full name, address, and phone numbers.

 Receiving

             At the time of shipping the shipper is given an air bill number. That number is then given to you by the shipper so you can tract the cargo and identify it at time of pick-up. You would then drive to the cargo department of Delta, at your specified airport, approximately fifteen minutes after your bird or birds are due to arrive. The fifteen to thirty minutes is to give them time to unload the plane. Next, identify your crate with your air bill number and drivers license. Lastly, inspect the condition of the bird or birds and take them home. It may sound complicated but it’s not. Really it’s very simple.

Why was I buying a parrot? Oh yeah!